Chilled Nizakana
Nizakana is a wonderfully gentle Japanese way of cooking fish, simmering it briefly in seasoned dashi rather than frying or grilling it into submission. This version takes things one step further by letting the fish cool and chill in its braising liquid, giving all that soy, sake, mirin and ginger plenty of time to get acquainted. The real geekery, though, is hiding in the dashi, where kombu, shiitake and dried fish bring different umami compounds to the party and make each other taste even better. Light, deeply savoury and particularly lovely on a hot day, it is proof that sometimes the best thing you can do to a good piece of fish is very little.
Classic Tuna Melt
The tuna melt is one of those gloriously unfussy sandwiches that doesn't need much convincing. Tuna, mayonnaise, crisp celery, tomato and an unreasonable amount of melted cheese, all tucked between toasted bread. My version has one slightly geeky trick: emulsifying extra virgin olive oil into the tuna, which makes the filling remarkably creamy and gives it a grassy, slightly bitter richness. It is part sandwich, part diner nostalgia, and basically a hot, cheesy hug you will absolutely not regret.
Agri-Style Jitada Fish Curry
This is the kind of fish curry where garlic takes up the main character energy. A charred coconut and coriander vatan gives the gravy its earthy backbone, Agri Koli masala brings the heat, and kokum adds just enough sourness to keep everything in check. Then there are those golden, bruised pieces of garlic hiding in the gravy. This is a family recipe from my Agri kitchen, and honestly, finding one of those pieces of garlic in your rice is one of the best parts of the whole operation.
Creamy Puttanesca
Puttanesca is not a pasta that believes in subtlety. Garlic, anchovies, olives, capers and chilli all arrive at the same time and make themselves heard. Traditionally there is no cream involved, but I like the idea of giving all that briny intensity somewhere soft to land. The cream rounds out the sharp edges without taking away the attitude. Think of it as puttanesca, after a very good spa day.