Duck Moile is a particularly good example of what happened when centuries of Portuguese presence on the Konkan coast collided with the cooking of Mumbai’s East Indian Catholic community. Duck, vinegar, wine and a sweet-sour balance sit alongside ginger, garlic, chillies and that most East Indian of institutions, bottle masala. It remains a festive dish too, particularly associated with Christmas and Easter tables.

Even the name appears to carry a little Portuguese baggage. Moile or moilee is often linked to the Portuguese molho, meaning sauce, although the etymology is repeated more confidently than it is documented, so I’d treat that as a likely linguistic connection rather than courtroom evidence. The Portuguese influence on the dish itself, however, is much easier to see.

My version gets a cup of red wine, coconut vinegar and bottle masala, then reduces until there is barely a gravy left, just a dark, sticky, sharply tart sauce clinging to duck and fried potatoes.

Five hundred years of cultural exchange, and somewhere along the way the duck got wine.