Caril de Frango

This is what happens when a curry takes the scenic route. With roots leading back to Goa, caril travelled through Portuguese-ruled Mozambique before eventually finding a comfortable home in Lisbon, picking up a Portuguese refogado and losing quite a few spices along the way.

Unlike the more complex curries of Goa, this version is deliberately mild. Onion, garlic, tomato and bay leaf are slowly cooked in plenty of oil before commercial curry powder, turmeric and coconut milk enter the picture. The result is creamy, deeply yellow, pleasantly oily and fragrant without overwhelming the chicken.

The curry powder isn't a shortcut here. It's actually part of the dish's identity, with Lisbon restaurants traditionally using Portuguese brands such as Margão.

Three continents, several generations of migration and colonial history, all eventually condensed into a surprisingly uncomplicated pot of chicken curry.