Custardy Scrambled Eggs

Scrambled eggs are one of those things where technique matters far more than the ingredient list. Eggs, butter, salt. Nothing particularly complicated. But change the pan, the heat and the way you stir them, and you end up with something completely different.

This version is cooked slowly in a small saucepan, stirring constantly and repeatedly interrupting the heat whenever the eggs threaten to set too quickly. Butter becomes both ingredient and temperature control, while crème fraîche or cream provides one final brake at the end. Instead of fluffy curds, the eggs gradually thicken into something glossy, rich and almost custard-like.

It requires considerably more attention than regular scrambled eggs, but once you understand how to control the temperature, you barely need a recipe at all.