Ombhl

Ombhl is a lovely little lesson in balancing flavours. Soft, almost jammy pumpkin gets cooked with tamarind until it turns deeply sour, then jaggery comes in to round out the edges, while mustard seeds, dried chilli and bay leaf bring a little savoury warmth. It's sweet, sour, spicy and earthy all at once, and somehow manages to make pumpkin considerably more exciting than pumpkin has any right to be.

Ingredients

• 400 g pumpkin, peeled and cut into medium cubes

• ¼ cup tamarind water

• ¼ cup water

• 2 tbsp jaggery, grated or finely chopped

• 1 tsp mustard oil

• 1 tsp mustard seeds

• 1 bay leaf

• 3 dried red chillies

• 1 tsp lemon juice

• Salt, to taste

Method

Cook the pumpkin
Place the pumpkin cubes in a heavy-bottomed pan.
Add the tamarind water and ¼ cup plain water.
Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the pumpkin is completely tender and beginning to break down.
Using the back of a spatula, gently mash some of the pumpkin. Don't turn it into a completely smooth purée. A few soft pieces should remain for texture.

Prepare the tempering
Heat mustard oil in a small tempering pan.
Add the mustard seeds and allow them to splutter.
Add the bay leaf and dried red chillies.
Once fragrant, pour the tempering over the cooked pumpkin.
Add salt and mix gently, continue cooking.

Balance the flavours
Add the jaggery and cook over low heat for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the jaggery dissolves and the mixture thickens slightly.
The final dish should sit somewhere between a soft vegetable preparation and a thick relish, with the pumpkin providing sweetness, tamarind bringing acidity and jaggery rounding everything out.
Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice.
Taste and adjust the salt, tamarind or jaggery if necessary.
Serve warm or at room temperature.