Kanakapura-Style Green Mutton Chops

This is the kind of mutton curry that doesn't believe in being polite. The green masala brings coriander, mint, green chillies and curry leaves, while black pepper adds a second, darker kind of heat. There is just enough coconut to give the gravy some body without getting in the way. Then comes the final tempering, where garlic, pepper and curry leaves hit hot oil and make the whole kitchen smell like trouble. Best eaten with ragi mudde, preferably with your hands and absolutely no apologies.

Ingredients

For the mutton

• 1.5 kg mutton chops

• 2–2½ tsp salt

• 1 tsp turmeric powder

• 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste

• 1 tsp lemon juice, optional

For the green masala

• 4 cups tightly packed fresh coriander leaves and stems

• 1 cup fresh mint leaves, and tender stems

• 20–24 green chillies

• 20 cloves garlic

• 2-inch piece ginger

• 4 tbsp freshly grated coconut

• 2 tbsp poppy seeds

• 2 tsp cumin seeds

• 2 tsp whole black peppercorns

• 1 tsp fennel seeds

• 8 cloves

• 2 small pieces cinnamon

• 2 handfuls curry leaves

For cooking

• 6 tbsp groundnut oil

• 4 medium onions, thinly sliced

• 3 sprigs curry leaves

• 3–3½ cups hot water

For the final tempering

• 2 tbsp groundnut oil

• 5–6 cloves garlic, roughly crushed

• 1 tsp whole black peppercorns

• 1 sprig curry leaves

Method

Marinate the mutton
Place the mutton chops in a large bowl and add the salt, turmeric and ginger-garlic paste. Mix thoroughly, making sure the chops are evenly coated.
Cover and refrigerate for 45 minutes to 2 hours.
If marinating for less than 2 hours, you can add 1 tsp lemon juice. If marinating for longer, leave it out.

Prepare the green masala
Add the coriander, mint, green chillies, garlic, ginger, coconut, poppy seeds, cumin, black pepper, fennel seeds, cloves, cinnamon and curry leaves to a blender.
Grind into a fine, thick paste. Add only as much water as necessary to get the blades moving. The masala should remain thick and intensely green.

Fry the masala
Heat 6 tbsp oil in a heavy-bottomed kadai or pot over medium heat.
Add the sliced onions and curry leaves. Sauté until the onions develop golden-brown edges while still retaining some texture.
Add the entire green masala and fry for 12–15 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently.
The masala should become thick, the raw aroma should disappear and the colour should darken slightly while remaining predominantly green.
This frying stage is important. You want the moisture to cook out and the spices and aromatics to properly bloom in the oil before the mutton goes in.

Cook the mutton
Add the marinated mutton and mix thoroughly, coating every chop with the green masala.
Add 3–3½ cups hot water and stir well.
Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook for 75–90 minutes, or until the mutton is completely tender.
The exact cooking time will depend on the cut and age of the meat. Stir occasionally and add a little more hot water if necessary.
The finished gravy should be medium-thin rather than thick, with enough liquid to coat the chops while still being substantial enough to scoop up with ragi mudde.

Prepare the final tempering
Heat 2 tbsp oil in a small pan over medium heat.
Add the crushed garlic, whole black peppercorns and curry leaves. Fry until the garlic is lightly golden and intensely fragrant.
Pour the tempering directly over the finished curry.
Do not stir immediately. Let the hot oil sit on the surface for a minute or two so the aromas have a chance to bloom.

Serving

Serve hot with:

• Ragi mudde

• Thatte idli

• Chapati

• Steamed rice with ghee

• Onion slices

Ragi mudde is particularly good here. Break off a piece, dip it into the green gravy and let the mutton do the rest of the work.