Slow-Braised Malabar Beef Roast
Few dishes are as rewarding as a well made Kerala beef roast, especially when the meat is given the time it deserves. This version takes a slightly longer route: the beef is first slow-braised until tender, then cut into chunks and roasted again with deeply caramelised onions, coconut oil, curry leaves, pepper and spices. The result is dark, intensely savoury and just a little bit sticky, with the braising liquid doing double duty as the secret weapon in the final masala. It is not exactly a quick dinner, but then again, good beef has never been particularly interested in your schedule.
Ingredients
Stage 1: Braise
500 g boneless beef short ribs, chuck or brisket, preferably one whole piece
1¼ tsp salt, divided
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp coconut oil
1 medium onion, about 150 g, sliced
2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
1 bay leaf
1 sprig curry leaves
120 ml dry red wine
Toddy is the traditional choice where available. Wine is a substitute.250 ml water
Stage 2: Kerala Roast
2 tbsp coconut oil
2 medium onions, about 300–350 g, thinly sliced
1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
1½ tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2 tsp coriander powder
½ tsp fennel powder
1½–2 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
¼ tsp turmeric powder
¼ tsp garam masala, optional
2 sprigs curry leaves
1 tsp vinegar
Reserved braising liquid, as required
Salt, to taste
Method
Stage 1: Braise the Beef
Season the beef
Wash and pat the beef dry.
Rub it thoroughly with ¾ tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper.
Allow it to rest for about 20 minutes.
Sear the beef
Heat a heavy casserole or ovenproof pot over medium-high heat.
Add the coconut oil and, once hot, sear the beef on all sides for 2–3 minutes per side, until deeply browned.
Don't rush this step. The browned surface forms the flavour base for the braise.
Remove the beef and set aside.
Build the braising base
Reduce the heat to medium.
Add the sliced onion and a small pinch of salt to the same pot.
Cook for 6–8 minutes, until the onion is lightly browned.
Add the ginger-garlic paste, bay leaf and curry leaves.
Cook for another minute, stirring frequently.
Deglaze
Pour in the red wine.
Increase the heat and let it boil vigorously for 2–3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot to release all the browned bits.
The sharp alcoholic aroma should largely disappear.
Start the braise
Add the water and once boiling, return the beef to the pot along with any juices that have collected on the plate.
The liquid should come approximately two-thirds of the way up the meat.
Bring to a gentle simmer.
Slow-braise
Preheat the oven to 160°C.
Cover the pot tightly and braise for 90 minutes.
Remove the lid and continue cooking for another 35–40 minutes.
Check the liquid midway. If it has fallen below roughly half the height of the meat, add about 50 ml hot water.
The beef is ready when a knife slides into it easily, but the piece is still firm enough to hold its shape.
Rest and cut
Remove the beef from the braising liquid and rest for 10–15 minutes.
Do not discard the braising liquid. Strain it if necessary and reserve it for the roast.
Cut the beef into roughly 3–4 cm chunks.
Stage 2: Kerala Roast
Caramelise the onions
Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a wide kadai or heavy frying pan over medium heat.
Add the sliced onions and a small pinch of salt.
Cook for 15–18 minutes, stirring regularly, until the onions become deep golden brown.
This is one of the most important steps. The darker the onions, without burning them, the deeper and sweeter the final roast will be.
Roast the masala
Lower the heat.
Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry for about 45 seconds.
Add the Kashmiri chilli powder, coriander powder, fennel powder, crushed black pepper, turmeric and garam masala, if using.
Immediately add about 3 tbsp of the reserved braising liquid and mix well.
Cook for about 1 minute until the spices become fragrant and the masala turns thick and glossy.
Adding a little braising liquid at this stage prevents the powdered spices from scorching.
Add the beef
Add the beef chunks and toss gently until they are completely coated in the masala.
Pour in about 120 ml of the reserved braising liquid.
Cook uncovered for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Allow the liquid to reduce until the masala becomes dark, thick and glossy enough to cling tightly to the beef.
If the pan starts drying out before the beef is properly coated, add a little more braising liquid.
Finish the roast
Add the curry leaves and vinegar.
Increase the heat slightly and roast for another 2–3 minutes, tossing occasionally, until the edges of the beef begin to caramelise and a little coconut oil starts separating from the masala.
Taste and adjust the salt.
Remove from the heat and rest for 20–30 minutes before serving.
Serving
Serve hot with:
Kerala porotta
Appam
Neychoru
Plain steamed rice
The ideal finished roast should be dark, intensely aromatic and relatively dry, with a thick masala clinging to the beef rather than a loose gravy. The beef should be tender from the braise but still substantial enough to get those lovely caramelised edges during the final roast.